Some Information About Diamonds

Carat weight

The prices for diamonds depend on a few of things. Carat weight is one of the 4C’s.

This is usually the most important of the 4C’s as the weight dictates the size and diamond shoppers know that the style of ring will depend on the size of the rock. That is, the first most important consideration a person makes will be basic size of diamond they want.

There are differences between TCW (Total Carat Weight) and CT (carat weight). Price is dictated by supply and demand. There are a lot fewer large diamonds then small.

The demand and price is influenced by the middlemen that move the ruff to cut stones and the market. The mines mediate the output and the preferred cutters control the next step. Rarity and demand add to the cost. It seems simple enough but diamonds are not your usual market.

Diamond Magic numbers

The magic number for most people has traditionally been ‘1ct’; this magic number is almost an idiom for an engagement ring. Most people don’t care but for those that do 1.01ct sounds better then .99ct. There can be a discount.

For example:

2.10 (.7ct, .7ct, .7ct) hits a magic figure three times. In that case, .60, .90, .60 costs a fraction less. Then there is .50ct, 1.1ct, 50ct which sounds more expensive to me. Interesting how they combine.

I am noticing that magic figures affect cost less. More and more, stones are bought by size and that may be because modern computer enhanced diamond cutting is able to provide calibrated results, which suit pre-made, pre-calibrated settings. It has become convenient to buy by size. You ask for a 4mm stone at the quality that you want. That is how the trade works.

This is partly why matching random sets is a cheaper way to reach a magic figure. 2.5ct would be an extreme version. (It is also proof that magic figures affect larger stones more). It is a lot cheaper to mix any set adding up to 2.5ct, then to buy one of the same quality. The more sought after and rare the stone the more the magic numbers become important.

The main price hikes representing the magic figures change depending on where your selection is placed in the market. Consistently .70pt is one, 1ct is obvious and 2.5ct is pretty hefty all the way through the 4c’s.

“Smalls”
Small diamonds, say -1mmare sold in bulk by weight after sieving by size and as the sieves portion off the 1.mm stones (.0125ct), etc. The weight is not as important as dimension, (although magic number TCW can conceivably influence the price). Setters dealing with smalls don’t set by weight but they calibrate the sizes by .mm scales. Incidentally, the quality of ‘Smalls’ is valued differently as they are sold in bulk. That is, better parcels cost more and are not directly related to the 4 C’s. The science isn’t the same.

Cut involves all the facets of a diamonds 'make'. It used to determine only the shape of a rock, but now cut grading weighs up factors such as proportion, symmetry and polish.

Brilliant cut. There are ideal parameters for proportions for regular cuts like brilliant cut. Other cuts have less stringent criteria which they can be judged by, but the crown and pavilion angles, along with the table size and overall depth are always important. Unusual cuts like the 'Lucida' still have to conform to the better ranges on ideal parameters for make. There are exceptions in accent stones that are used as design elements and for fancy cut stones. In some cuts the ideal shape is more about the beauty of the look more then the amount of sparkle or face up size.

Step cut diamonds. This style is much less reliant on light return for beauty. Step cuts include, baguette cut, emerald cut and square emerald, and there are different geometrical shapes which are also step cut. The defining characteristic is the stepped angles. While brilliant cut facets are circular and kite shaped, step cuts are flat plains cut horizontal to the table.

Princess cut. This cut was originally cut from certain rough to maximize weight. It has been very popular and is a fast improving cut. The facets are very slight. The shape is basically an upside down pyramid with a relatively small crown. It is often the most preferred cut however it not shaped for the most ‘light return’. The facets are line up toward the culet and the cut can be altered to make the most of the rough to good affect.

Round stones always return the most light. The pavilion facets are evenly lined up, juxtaposed with the crown facets at the desired angle, so with a given direction of light (above), light travels through the table and is returned creating sparkle. It shouldn’t really matter how many facets there are or how they are placed in general. There are variations; however the brilliant cut pattern is most preferred for performance and look. Gems other then diamonds often suit other patterns,

Old cuts: This title refers to older round cuts. There are many different cuts that fit into this area. They tend to be closer to the 8 cut (or single cut) with extra facets. Some have culet cuts which is where the point is flat. They can be quite beautiful and are often found in antique jewellery. There are also many beautiful examples in Art Deco jewellery. They are still produced, but can be hard to find.
Single cuts: This cut has half the facets of a full cut. They are produced in the first stage of cutting. They are the necessary cut to produce the shape of a brilliant cut diamond. Often they are just half finished stones and perhaps speculative in nature. High tech machines are used to create single cuts in small sizes to exact proportions and the cut is in high demand by high end watch makers. It is also used in jewellery to good affect.
Rose cuts: This cut refers to the diamond chip you see in older jewellery. They are roughly shaped with facets. They are very small and made in the days when it was impossible to control the shape in that size.

Not round Some cuts include: pear, marquise, trillion, radiant, baguette, emerald, princess, tapered shapes, and fancy shapes like heart. There are probably as many names for different cuts as words on this page. Some brilliant cuts are modified incorporating the best of both worlds with the sacrifice being spread - face up size, such as the square H&A (hearts and arrows).

The type of facet arrangement is important when incorporating an arrangement of stones in a design. Step cuts with step cuts etc. Some designs suit different styles. For instance square cuts can be used as a border around a round center stone. It depends on whether they are intended as accent stones or they are part of a set such as a three stone, trilogy.

There is no easy way to select a set of fancier cut diamonds if they are to match. The way they combine creates a personality. It is popular to use three stones. The relationship between sizes is a matter of individual choice. Often, the importance of the centre stone is weighed against the two side stones.

Regarding matching three stones by make, it would be a shame not to be consistent. If you are matching a set with diamonds you already have, you can have a G, polish on one side and an EX, polish on the other with no obvious difference. It depends on what is irregular about the polish. There are methods of manufacture that will hide differences and it usually advisable to leave the selection to professionals if you are buying irregular shapes.

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